Take The Path Less Ordinary

Those who watched

“Tico” is simply the name commonly used to refer to Costa Rica’s native inhabitants, which is also widely used to depict beautiful people.

In the said Ugly Betty episode, “Tico berries” are supposed to make one sexy and Adriana Lima, a Victoria Secret hottie, eats them to maintain her super model good looks!

Well, here’s one more reason to visit Malaysia. What Adriana showed was actually Rambutan fruit, Nephelium lappaceum, which is native to Malaysia. The name “rambut” actually means hair in Malay and “rambutan” means lots of hair.

Ordinary people describe these carafers as souvenirs. We are convinced they are extraordinary as there isn’t any earthenware in the world that spots a glossy black finishing. The essence of Labu Sayong, after all, lies in its unmistakable hallmark.

How did they discover a way to darken the jars? And who gave them the idea to shape it like a pumpkin in the first place?

Black is beautiful

It’s fascinating that although Labu Sayong has existed for centuries, it never spread far from its birthplace. Within a few kilometres from Kampong Kelapa Bendang, I could feel the vintage vibe that shrouds the place. Clearly, Perak River has something to do with it.

Riverside clay was available, and people needed something to carry water. Perhaps this compelled the first settlers into making jars. Villagers must also have buried some freshly fired jars in rice husks for fast cooling and inadvertently gave jars a carbonized surface. This is not surprising since rice farming was wide spread in olden Perak and husks were plentiful.

Shaped for purpose

Much of what we know about Labu Sayong is still open to question. For example, why the pumpkin shape?

We seek out a veteran for some clues. Nazrin Nazeri, 47, who makes 60 jars a week, is a good candidate. With his daughter looking on innocently, Nazrin gently caress a lump of soggy clay on the turntable as though in a trance.

Caught in those precious minutes, his world is right in front of him. Nothing else matters. He must quickly give the clay its gourd shape before it gets too dry.

“I am really not sure of its shape origin”, quips Nazrin, “but I think it was because people of the olden days use dugout pumpkin as water container”. “Eventually clay was used to depict pumpkin I suppose”. Well, it makes perfect sense.

Selling hot

Rashid Uda Ahmad, 52, works 9 to 8 hours daily baking roughly 100 jars. Tempered by heat and fired by passion, Rashid is one of the few masters who have perfected the art of giving Labu Sayong its famed black shine.

Firstly, jars must be heated up to 800 degrees Celsius in kilns for 5 hours. This dehydrates and changes the molecular structure of clay into ceramic. Then they are quenched in sawdust for 5 minutes to produce that outstanding dark glossy finish. He would have used sekam padi, or rice husks, decades ago but nowadays sawdust is more easily available.

“We have to wait for paddy harvesting season to acquire the husks”, explains Rashid. “That’s too disruptive for mass production. We can’t wait”, he adds and points to the hundreds of jars waiting to be fired.

It’s nice to know that the traditional ornament still has ardent followings. Working just as hard during the fasting month of Ramadan, Rashid hopes to cash in on Hari Raya sale when holidaymakers throng the sleepy hollow.

The rising sun has just started to bath the kampong in warm glow. Across the river, Masjid Ubudiah’s iconic domes sparkle with inspiring brilliance. We are stunned and locked in a scene that is breathtakingly beautiful.

Thank you makciks and pakciks of Sayong. You have kept a wonderful craft alive and given me an intimate experience. Your charm will stick with us long after the clay on the soles of our shoes has dried.

How to get there

Exit the PLUS North South Highway at Kuala Kangsar exchange. Head on to the town and find your way to trunk road leading to Sungai Siput (U). After crossing Sultan Abdul Jalil Bridge, turn right.

You’d know it’s the sweet spot when you see rows of makeshift stores selling Labu Sayong flanking the countryside road. Backyard workshops run by smallholders pepper the rural enclave. You won’t have any trouble asking how to reach one from friendly locals.

Yes, this is how we like our jungle – raw and full of ruses. We don’t mind Maliau to be rude even.

Like the time when a herd of deer darts across the trail unapologetically. Our 4×4 vehicles screeches off track to avoid them, almost landing on a muddy ditch. Surprises are to be expected. Blink and you’ll miss the most exciting part.

It’s easy to cross path with wildlife along the 4×4 trail into Maliau’s heart

To many intrepid nature lovers, Maliau is a dreamlike haven. Tucked in the most remote part of Malaysia, it’s a pocket where time stands still. If prehistoric Malaysia has a face, it would look like Maliau. A guided tour package to Maliau is reputed to be the most expensive in South East Asia. Currently, one need to cough up roughly RM4,000 for a typical 5 day 4 night package and only a handful of guides are familiar with the Sabah’s interiors.

This post attempts to give the intrepid eco-traveller an insight on how to DIY self-drive based on our recent visit to Maliau Basin Conservation Area.

Drop zone Tawau

Tawau is the entry point with the nearest airport to Maliau. The town strikes us as a place where locals are blasé and the day drift by effortlessly. They know immediately we are not local from our hurried pace.

Just 40 minutes drive out of town and the countryside lulls one with more humdrums. The roadside becomes un-peopled. And as soon as tarred road gives way to soil trail, mobile phone signal dims off. From thereon, the scenery is a mix of dust clouds, log laden trucks and the wild frontier.

Roughly 2 hours’ drive later, the junction to Kalabakan and Telupid (en route Danum valley and Imbak Canyon, other great conservation hubs in the region) greets one with a roundabout. Yes, it’s quite strange to see a roundabout tying a few soil trails together in the middle of nowhere. We try not to chuckle but our local colleague driver quips, “Go ahead, I know what you’re thinking”.

Trail of hard knocks

What do you get when rain washes gravelled road on a daily basis?

“Pai kuat loong” or dragon’s ribs, as locals call it. It’s easy to agree when the driver pulls no punches. At the speed of 90km/hr, the vehicle thunders through “ribs” formed by rows of water grooves perpendicular to the road length, causing a buckling ride unlike anything we have experienced before. After a while, we got used to hitting our head on vehicle’s cabin top.

The journey is undulating alright.

It is usual for the vehicle to peak at 400m above sea level and within 15 minutes dips back to 40m. We try to ease the headache and travel sickness by fixing our gaze on Tualang trees along the trail. We have never seen so many Tualangs in one drive.

These trees are still standing tall thanks to taboo. It’s peculiar pale white trunk and towering height spooks locals and they call it pokok hantu. Axing one invites trouble they say. Thank god, after 4 hours of thumping, Maliau’s entry gateway finally unfolds on my right. Another few hours of dragon’s rib would have severed our heads.

Thin slice of modernity

The worse is not over. After signing in at the gateway office, it’s another 1.5 hours muddy ride into Maliau’s heart. Soon, the air becomes cool and crisp. The mobile phone that goes blank for hours suddenly springs to life when we enter the study center. Apparently, the place has a special satellite dish that taps into the country’s telecom network. We nearly kiss it.

This is the only bit of technology we really appreciate in Maliau. So, no worries about being cut off from the rest of the world.

Also, we are surprised how well the place is maintained by the rangers and staffs. The place is a close knitted settlement of study center, cafeteria, meeting halls and numerous rooms for overnight stays. Beyond its realm, it is 588.4 km2 of pure wilderness without a single manmade item in sight.

We are glad Sabah Foundation has a sound grasp on responsible ecotourism. With minimum buildings and ornamental structures, there’s less tree falling and land clearing. This surely augurs well with conservation.

Crave by water and time

From high ground, Maliau looks like a crater caused by some cosmic accident.

First discover in 1947, past surveyors believed it to be the crash site of a stray meteor. Some attributed it to volcanic activity. Today, the 390 km2 basin is confirmed by geologists to be caused by soil movements.

Maliau’s famed crescent shaped ridge backdrops the sprawling rain forest

Drained by the Maliau River, a highland plateau of soft soil collapsed over time and left a saucer shaped indentation. The remaining curved ridge that embraces the basin is truly a sight to behold. This phenomenon isn’t unique to Maliau Basin. In fact, local colleagues say there is another smaller and lesser known basin called Malibau in the same region.

Walking the talk

We really think Sabah has the best managed ecotourism sites in Malaysia. Unlike national parks elsewhere that aim for mass tourism, Yayasan Sabah is careful not to let commercialism overshadow conservation.

And they take it seriously.

A rare glimpse of rain forest top canopy on suspension bridge built with minimal disturbance to local ecology

Like Mt Kinabalu and Sipadan Island, only limited visitors are allowed daily in Maliau and all groups must be escorted by in-house rangers. This ensures visitors do not act in any manner which disturbs local ecology. Permits specify that rangers are allowed to check visitors’ luggage at anytime to deter the collection of “souvenirs”.

Where to sleepover

Remember, this is not touristy park.

You cannot show up and get a list of tour packages to choose from. This is a conservation site. Accommodation and activity must be pre-arranged weeks in advance. Rangers’ priority is to keep you safe, not impress you with Disney-fied hooplas. In certain stretches of trek, it’s everyone for himself.

So, it’s not the kind of place for family outings or beginners.

Observation tower

Bring plenty of energy bars, water and of course raincoat. Rain is almost certain on daily basis – they don’t call our jungle rainforest for nothing. And it can get pretty damp and cold at night. Depending on your fitness and interests, there are numerous trails that lead to a list of overnight spots as follow;

Lobah Camp – Dorm with hammock beds for 20 person
Nepenthes Camp – Double storey dorm with bunk beds for 15 persons
Ginseng Camp – Dorm with hammock beds for 20 persons
Seraya Camp – Shed with hammock beds for 20 persons
Agathis Camp – Dorm with hammock beds for 30 persons
Belian Camp – Camping ground that fits 20 twin sharing tents

All camp sites come with bare necessities like electricity generators, kitchens and toilets. Water is sourced from rain, usually collected from roofing. For a high-octane trip into the deepest interiors, one can opt for a helicopter ride to Rafflesia Camp. In such case, a hefty cash deposit is required (we hear RM4000).

For inquiry and DIY arrangement, contact Maliau Basin Studies Centre’s office in Tawau. Call 087 742100, fax 087 742101 or email maliau@icsb-sabah.com.my

Go home the other way

After the jaunt in Maliau, don’t backtrack to Tawau. We suggest driving the Sapulut - Nabawan – Keningau route to reach Kota Kinabalu for the flight home. While driving Tawau to Maliau isn’t too bad, the Keningau end is much more interesting. It visually feasts one with local life at the various hamlets and villages. The Muruts make a strong presence here and are prolific boat builders. The journey also inspires one to no end. And the view of Crocker Mountainous Range is certainly breathtaking.

Boat crafted by the Murut natives

There you are, a trip that has all the highs and lows as imagine. It’s pretty clear Maliau isn’t the easiest destination to visit. You’ll spend half the trip wondering if you’re in heaven, and another half in hell. But if you’re no stranger to adventure, Maliau will thrill you to bits.

Recently we conducted an e-interview with Devan Singaram, one of the founders, to get an overview of what makes the project tick.

1. Tell us something about Elevyn.com’s founders?

Mike Tee and I were running our own IT businesses prior to Elevyn. We felt that our skills and knowledge in the field could be put to doing something more meaningful rather than just “make money”. The field coordinator of the team, Sze Ning, is actively involved in research and documentation work on Orang Asli rights. She has a deep passion for arts and crafts by indigenous groups.

Devan (right), Mike Tee (left)

2. How did all of you meet? Any funny tales?

Initially, Mike and I were sort of hi-bye friends; but both kept bumping into each other. On one occasion, it was in a restaurant, and a “hi man” conversation soon stretched into a 6-hour-tea-and-dinner! We discovered that we’re both Liverpool fans, write code for a living, and wanted to do much more!

3. How did the idea of Elevyn.com came about? Tell us your story.

Elevyn started as a project to document social entrepreneurship projects. We learnt of stories of a world cup just for the homeless, a Sri Lankan who made paper out of elephant dung to save them (by improving villagers’ relationship with elephants) and I backpacked through Thailand meeting hill tribe refugees in Chiang Rai, documenting a project on selling their crafts to Japanese students. We then decided to stop being bystanders and do something more sustainable.

About the time, during her trip to an indigenous village in Sabah, Sze Ning witnessed first-hand the crippling effects of poverty amongst the marginalized communities. The old women relied on their weavings to make a living, and requested help from Sze Ning to sell them in KL. Stumped, she relayed her experience to us, and everything clicked!

4. What’s the hardest part in starting and maintaining Elevyn.com?

Developing the site was the easy part - in spite of the hundreds of hours poured in! One part which we are still figuring out is how to convert enough visitors into buyers to make it a sustainable venture. We’d love to have some help on this!

Chic handmade earrings and necklaces are uniquely yours to coo friends

Also - organizing the NGOs and communities is a learning experience itself. Our supply chain is unique in the sense we allow the artisans, or at least the community based organization, themselves to set the price and ship items directly to buyers. So making sure items are packaged and sent in the most effective way is part of the challenge as we work with several communities.

We are also looking for ways to constantly innovate to bring the buyer and artisan closer together.

5. Any advice for those are thinking of starting their own social aid projects?

Start small, aim for sustainability and not charity to drive a project, if possible. I have started an experimental project called www.unreason.my for those who need help gettting social aid projects going. Check out the blog for more ideas and people who have started something.

Log on Elevyn.com to find out how you can buy and bring the much needed economical spread to Malaysia’s hidden side.

1. Sudden fever
2. Sudden cough
3. Runny nose

Yes, it’s broadly the same symptoms of ordinary flu.

That’s why it is spreading like wild fire because travellers think it’s just another mild setback. Nothing to worry about and surely not enough to forgo expensive flight and hotel booking deposits. Moreover, we are told in the news that most people who contract swine flu recover within a week and do not suffer complications, even without being given antiviral medication. So why the over reaction?

Well, the news also did say it can kill, and the statistic shows.

Like Nipah, SAR, bird flu and the likes, all viruses hit very hard and fast. Compounded by the summer holiday frenzy, they are brought to every corner of the world very quickly. If everyone observe good hygiene, hopefully, the spread would slack. All travellers have the responsibility of not endangering host country when they go sightseeing.

Carry luggage, not virus.

OK, we know staying at home is boring. If you must go, we advise - Catch it, Wrap it, Don’t touch it.

1. Catch coughs, sneezes and dribbles in a tissue.
2. Wrap your goo in tissue and trash it in the bin.
3. Don’t touch handrails, door knobs, anything that is commonly tainted by human traffic. Open doors by pushing with shoulders. Avoid crowded area.

Please keep on doing these things.

She has natural beauty, cultured and hell can she dresses up. And although she may not be singing all the high notes of 21st century, she has enough to take one’s senses off with an oomph.

The sun sets in Marudu Bay with a fancy finish

Ignored for decades, the northern tip is a world not quite adjusted to new age. Take for example the fried free-range chicken I eat for breakfast. It has textures that can severe dental features. Leathery tough alright, but I swear it’s the most flavoursome chicken I had for a long long time.

Yet, the little meal tells a story. It depicts Borneo’s idyllic charm, untouched by mass tourism and modernity.

The thrill goes beyond sightseeing. For every great journey, destination is only half the deal. Winging it with a mix bag of characters completes it. My Kota Kinabalu – Kudat trip includes a reforestation project director, a retired accountant and an intrepid seafarer. With an anthropology professor, an award winning botanist and an eco-design architect stirred in, the days gallop along with astute narrations from these experts.

We share many memorable moments too, from watching Marudu Bay’s magical sunset to throwing up over Pulau Balambangan’s rough sea. We are bonded by what Sabah hurls at us in 5 days, at full fury.

For many, Sabah is a region visited for lofty peaks, touristy wildlife parks and coral islands. We, however, prefer to see the other side.

Paddy and parang

The northern route isn’t popular, but that can be a good thing.

Roughly 180km from tip to toe, the countryside remains unscathed by modernity and mass tourism. It is indeed a time capsule of Borneo’s purest life.

The first hamlet that greets one on the trail is Kota Belud, the epicentre of Bajau run paddy fields and hub for fine machetes or parangs. These are no ordinary parangs as Bajaus are warrior blacksmiths. And for the best parangs, Kampung Siasai is the place to go.

I like collecting authentic native craftworks. Spotting a blade at a village workshop I fancy, “RM75” is the stern answer when I ask for price. It is artistic, handy and uniquely shaped. Hence, it is a steal for such fine quality of craftsmanship.I wholeheartedly agree and as I slip into my pocket for money, the blacksmith changes his mind and quips, “OK, I’d let you have it at RM60”!

This is the strangest bargain I ever aced – getting low price I didn’t ask for. Wondering who is doing the reverse psychology here.

Rungus heartland

In hamlets like Kota Marudu and Matunggong, the local scene takes a personality split.

Over 40,000 Rungus make a potent presence here. If you didn’t know, the word Kadazan Dusun doesn’t fully depict Sabah’s residents. There are about 65 sub-ethnics in Malaysia’s most eastern state. Each has its distinct culture, language and culinary delights.

I stop asking locals which group they belong to after the first day in Sabah. It’s all too mind boggling. And remember, locals hate generalization. I meet a fisherman who insists that he is a Bugis, not Melayu, when I ask him his race. Everyone is proud of their pedigree.

As for the Rungus, angular walls of their traditional long houses are the local maxim. Another great feature of the Rungus culture is they way they doll up. All men and women own a chockfull of bracelets, bangles and trinkets. These accessories are slipped onto the wrist according to sequence dictated by age old tradition.

And oh, Rungus womenfolk are born to weave.

Sisingal- Several strings of beads tied together, to be worn around the head

Pinakol - Bands of geometric and human figures beadwork usually worn over the shoulders.

Everyone is trained to process jungle materials into robust baskets and tapestries from young. An elderly man shows us a 50 years old rattan knapsack which served his parents in the past. The relic keeps a sturdy shape and looks like it could last another 50 years more, although aging has carbonized it.

Simply put, visiting a Rungus village is like rummaging through your grandma’s closet. It’s a visual feast of sort.

Show me the honey

Roughly 1hr drive north Kota Marudu, we hit Gombizau village. The air is humming with soft almost hypnotic “tung-tung, tung-tung” rhyme. Everyone is either banging away with raw steel plates or fine tuning finished gongs.

We drive deeper into the village and another interesting view unfolds. Part of the “one village one product” scheme mooted by local government, 9 women banded together in 2003 to start a community-based bee farming project. Nowadays, the scheme includes a short guided tour around the hives.

For RM5 per person, one gets to thrill the taste buds with freshly cut honeycomb. The village was dotted with old trees bearing wild bee hives in olden days. That was how locals developed the skill for honey harvesting and used it for barter trade. However, most trees have been cut and replaced by oil palms in the past decades. Locals had turned to bee farming to continue the age old tradition.

I learn a good buying tip here.

If a shop offers bottled honey of same colour, they are most probably fakes. According to our guide, each hive produce honey of different shades of brown because nectar is collected from flowers of various plants, areas and seasons. Hence, difference in viscosity, colour and flavour is to be expected.

Wind swept and sea tossed

Sabah’s timeless appeal spans over the ocean. It is really exciting. I feel as if I am voyaging into uncharted latitudes. But, I am barely 10 nautical miles off Kudat’s shore. Again, a myriad of ethnicities like the Ubian, Sukuk and Bonggi pepper the local population.

Never sail the waters off Kudat coast on a full stomach

No one really knows how these parts are managed. Kudat’s northern edge is really close to Phillippines waters and it appears wild and deserted.

Pulau Banggi is the main draw here. And despite its sheer size (slightly larger than Singapore), population is sparse and sadly the poorest Malaysians live here centred around Karakit.

It is probably no coincidence that people rarely venture here. The wind swept choppy sea is enough to shoot anyone’s nerves to pieces. When we see our boat vessel operator puke, we know it won’t be long when our turns come. What started out as an island hopping trip progresses into a marathon of throw-ups. Yet, I consider it the favourite part of my Sabah jaunt.

On a desert island, we stumble on wild Tongkat Ali patches everywhere we look. My botanist travel mate has a field day cooing how plants thrived and evolved naturally in an isolated island. It’s as though he discovered a lost world. Funny how nature never holds still; biology will find ways to live in the most hostile setting.

Bugis community only fish at night on bagangs, not boats. Bamboo structures are put up on shallow waters and lamps are hung low on water surface to attract fishes for netting.

Come to think of it, what I really love about the northern Sabah is its innocence. The thinly peopled landscape and coconut draped shoreline.

I’d say it again: Northern Sabah makes a good wife.

Occasionally, she throws tantrums and the relationship may not be smooth sailing. But she’ll always have your heartstrings on her finger tips.

Travel Tips

To see the countryside up close, self driving is the way to go. Getting lost is fairly impossible. Mount Kinabalu outcrop is always there for you to check your bearings.

Contrary to what people say, Sabah’s countryside roads are well paved and not short of signage. It pays to drive slower though as marauding goats, cows and chickens are part of the local pedestrian scene.

All telcos’ mobile phone signals are strong in the region. In choppy waters over far flung Pulau Banggi, my hand phone could still muster 2 bars.

For overnights, Kota Belud and Kudat are good places to pad as hotels and eateries are easy to come by. If you prefer something unusual, try Bavanggazo village’s traditional Rungus longhouse. The overnight package is priced at RM58 per person with dinner and breakfast included. Contact 088 622524 for bookings.

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Editor: This article was published in New Straits Times dated June 02, 2009.

Good reads after this

1. Road map of Sabah
2. Climb Mt Kinabalu with the heart, not feet

The Malaysian Agriculture Department is perhaps more specific. In their list, codes like D2, D24, D99 and D158 depict each sub-species and a hefty 190 clones have been recorded since 1934. Nevertheless, for Malaysians, name like “Hor Lor”, “Raja Kunyit” or “Dato Nina” sounds more appealing.

“Durian with an attitude” – that’s the cliché for the fruit nowadays.

A variety from Kampung Beserah, Kuantan, obtains the nickname “kucing mendengkur” from its flesh pulps which cuddle like napping kittens. “Ang heh”, meaning red prawn, has reddish flesh is another famous “attitude” durian from Balik Pulau, Penang. There’s also one called “bantal emas” or golden pillow from Chepor, Perak. The bronze-skinned “durian tembaga” still makes an impression to older generation.

Yet, at the dawn of 21st century, a thorny issue has started to rear its ugly head. This has something to do with pre-ripe harvesting in Thailand. Everyone knows durian’s Thai cousins are more famous the world over. This is largely due to pre-ripe harvesting practices in Thailand which enables durians to be shipped to far places. This is not possible with ripe durians because they go bad in days. Pre-ripe picking robs off the pungent flavour. Hence, Thai durians sold outside SE Asia lack the punch and give durians a bland reputation. Commercialization also caused cultivation of only productive varieties; hence Thai durians are slowly loosing genetic diversity. Wild durian trees are culled are replaced with marketable ones. Today, very few types exist and durians from Thailand do not have a variety of tastes like its Malaysian relatives. Oranges, apples and grapes have suffered similar fate in western countries.

Back home, let’s hope a lesson is learnt from this and wild durian trees should be conserved.

The fuss about durian is legendary. Mind you, even the smell has “flavour”.

Funny thing is, most Caucasians with a liking for strong cheese would freak out with one sniff of the fruit. Once in the mouth, with nostril pinched, the flavour seems to build to an unbearable threshold. Throwing up is conceivably the only reflex left.

Ask Andrew Z - The host of popular Bizarre Food TV travel series is known for his strong threshold of quirky food. But finally, it was durian that floored him in seconds

Well, look on the other side. Naturalist Alfred Russle Wallace has this to say, “To eat durian is a new sensation worth a voyage to the East”. And he said these 150 years ago. So, do yourself a flavour. A trip to Malaysia is never complete without dabbling with durian.

A nose for durian

So, how does one know if a durian is worth its price? Those hung up ones are normally guaranteed buys, usually commercialized clones. But do expect to dig deep into your pockets.

For countryside varieties, ask the seller to help you. But the truth is – your guess is as good as his. Buying wholesale from villagers, sellers don’t have the faintest idea on quality.

So, here’s the low down.

A good buy is all logic. Give it a good shake and feel if there’s any jiggle inside. Dry pulp “jiggles” and likely to be sweet. Wet ones don’t jiggle because they are soft and gluey. However, some aficionados prefer the wet type. Beware, unripe pulps can jiggle too.

Next tip, take a deep breath. Ripe ones give off aroma. Unripe ones smell like fleshly cut grass. Durian is best enjoyed 8-10 hrs from the time it drops off from the tree. A bit of aging brings out a good flavour. For clue, the stem tip should be slightly damp with sap, indicating the fruit is still fresh. Dry stem means the fruit is at least 2 days old.

Never be put off by sight of worm holes. It is a good indication that the durians are grown in pesticide free conditions. It is no secret that commercial plantations indiscriminately feed trees with chemicals through roots. When pesticide is absorbed and goes all the way up, fruits taste foul to pests like insects and squirrel - all done in the name of productivity. Chemical-tainted fruits leave a slight numb on the tip of your tongue. Therefore, it’s safer to share the fruit with pests. If they eat it, it’s clean.

Lastly, if kept in plastic bag, fresh fruit emits water vapor. This indicates the fruit is still “breathing” (read: fresh) and you got your money worth.

Things you should know about durian

1. Believe it or not, the “King of Jungle” has a lot of respect for the “King of Fruits”. The mighty tiger has a soft spot of durian and courteous enough to leave seeds nicely piled up after a feast. So, if you see heaps of seeds in the jungle, don’t say we didn’t warn you.

2. Eating durian causes body’s metabolism rate to ramp up. For this reason, locals never eat durian after consuming alcoholic drinks because they believe it causes sudden stroke. Locals also avoid eating durians at night to prevent “heaty” body which disturbs sleep.

3. You know people always say food that tastes bad is always good aphrodisiac in Asia. Well, durian is one of them. Many locals believe eating durian makes one frisky. That’s enough reason for most beginners to give it a try!

4. No hotel in Malaysia will allow guests to bring in durians for any reason. The smell is hard to neutralize and can linger on for days. Hotel housekeepers are trained to throw guests out if they’re caught with durians in the room.

5. Durian is the only fruit with high cholesterol content. If you are watching your weight or has heart problems, stay clear from it.

6. We believe people who hate durian didn’t have a good start. The first bite is most crucial. For beginners, choose pulps that are firm (the soggy type you’d learn to like later) and imagine you’re biting on a ripe banana that’s flavoured with strong vanilla and brandy. Some varieties can taste milky too. It’s all in the mind. Once you get pass the first chew, you’ll love it forever.