Take The Path Less Ordinary

“MAPS encourage boldness. They’re like cryptic love letters. They make anything seem possible” - Mark Jenkins, in To Timbuktu

We know beginners to Malaysia usually pop aspirins before attempting to decipher maps provided by the internet or guidebooks. Don’t blame them. These maps are usually linked with too many names and irrelevant routes, all done in the name of being “detailed”. We believe in simplicity and here is how you can cut through the clutter with the following diagrams.

Peninsula pitstops

Below is a simplified map and locations of all key cities, towns, hamlets and jetties that form the road and public transport services network in peninsula Malaysia. At any one of these nodes, there’s a transit hub where one can hop on taxis/buses to towns or jetties within 200-500km radius.

There are places one can whiz pass 100km in one hour and there are rural areas that eat up a whole day just to cover 10km. Be prepared for these two extremes when travelling around the country.

For example, it only takes 2 hours’ travelling time to cover KL-Ipoh route (210km) but one will need 3-4 hours for KL-Kuantan (250km) journey because it involves passing through Karak’s steep road and compounded by the traffic crawl on east KL’s densely populated Selayang and Batu Caves suburb.

Another good example: KL-Taman Negara journey (which we think most would be interested in). From the map, it looks nearer than KL-Ipoh route but here’s the drill. The journey begins with multiple up down terrains from KL pass Karak to Jerantut, roughly 2.5hrs bus ride. From thereon, Kuala Tembeling jetty is accessible via a narrow road peppered with chickens, cows or goats, making fast driving impossible. By van or bus, the Kuala Tembeling - Kuala Tahan ride takes another 3hrs. If it rains, it gets worse. In all, that’s roughly 5-6hrs of travelling. So, if you’ve booked a 3d/2n package, departing from KL, expect the 1st and 3rd day to be spent mostly on roads or river repeating “Are we there yet?”

Never travel on a tight schedule in Malaysia. Work with geography and go with the flow.

Highland blockage

On the map, the peninsular looks pretty small. And yet, as early as 16th century, overland travels had given colonial Portuguese, Dutch and English a lot to fuss about. It is still the most asked questions by travellers today.

The thing most guide books and touristy maps missed out is the Titiwangsa Mountainous Range that forms the backbone of peninsula Malaysia. On the up side, this mass of highland effectively fences east and west coast monsoon season from spilling over. Hence, through out the year, the coasts take turn to enjoy sunny and rainy days. However, on the downside, it made roads and rail tracks building a tedious task. Once the traveller understands peninsula Malaysia’s topography and how roads and rail tracks are built to compensate it, combing the country becomes easy.

The map below will gives one a good overview of trunk roads and rail lines built around Titiwangsa. Bear in mind, roads that are paved across highland require more travelling time compared to those on flatlands.

The Titiwangsa range stretches from southern Thailand to Jelebu in Negeri Sembilan state. The highest peak is Mount Tahan (2187m) that sits on northern Taman Negara. Other notable peaks are Mount Korbu (2183m) in east Ipoh and Mount Ledang near Endau Rompin Reserve.

At time of writing, there are only 3 roads that cut across the range, namely East West Highway (Ipoh-Grik-Jeli), Karak highway (KL-Karak-Temerloh) and the latest addition Ipoh-Cameron Highland-Gua Musang Highway which was completed in 2005. In 2009, the Gua Musang-Kuala Berang stretch will be completed to link west to the east coast.

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Helping you wing Malaysia like a pro

We know many hate wordy posts. This site is designed to give beginners an easily digestible overview of our country Malaysia. Hence, we have loaded up on diagrams and photos to help you absorb as much information in a jiffy. Click around. You’ll find the sidebar a treasure trove of insider accounts.

First it hugs you, and then it kills you. The strangler fig is no pushover in the botanical kingdom. It best epitomises Darwinism’s “survival of the fitness”. A fully grown fig can choke the largest tree to death and takes over its place.

Yes, this is how we like our jungle – raw and full of ruses. We don’t mind Maliau to be rude even.

Like the time when a herd of deer darts across the trail unapologetically. Our 4×4 vehicles screeches off track to avoid them, almost landing on a muddy ditch. Surprises are to be expected. Blink and you’ll miss the most exciting part.

It’s easy to cross path with wildlife along the 4×4 trail into Maliau’s heart

To many intrepid nature lovers, Maliau is a dreamlike haven. Tucked in the most remote part of Malaysia, it’s a pocket where time stands still. If prehistoric Malaysia has a face, it would look like Maliau. A guided tour package to Maliau is reputed to be the most expensive in South East Asia. Currently, one need to cough up roughly RM4,000 for a typical 5 day 4 night package and only a handful of guides are familiar with the Sabah’s interiors.

This post attempts to give the intrepid eco-traveller an insight on how to DIY self-drive based on our recent visit to Maliau Basin Conservation Area.

Drop zone Tawau

Tawau is the entry point with the nearest airport to Maliau. The town strikes us as a place where locals are blasé and the day drift by effortlessly. They know immediately we are not local from our hurried pace.

Just 40 minutes drive out of town and the countryside lulls one with more humdrums. The roadside becomes un-peopled. And as soon as tarred road gives way to soil trail, mobile phone signal dims off. From thereon, the scenery is a mix of dust clouds, log laden trucks and the wild frontier.

Roughly 2 hours’ drive later, the junction to Kalabakan and Telupid (en route Danum valley and Imbak Canyon, other great conservation hubs in the region) greets one with a roundabout. Yes, it’s quite strange to see a roundabout tying a few soil trails together in the middle of nowhere. We try not to chuckle but our local colleague driver quips, “Go ahead, I know what you’re thinking”.

Trail of hard knocks

What do you get when rain washes gravelled road on a daily basis?

“Pai kuat loong” or dragon’s ribs, as locals call it. It’s easy to agree when the driver pulls no punches. At the speed of 90km/hr, the vehicle thunders through “ribs” formed by rows of water grooves perpendicular to the road length, causing a buckling ride unlike anything we have experienced before. After a while, we got used to hitting our head on vehicle’s cabin top.

The journey is undulating alright.

It is usual for the vehicle to peak at 400m above sea level and within 15 minutes dips back to 40m. We try to ease the headache and travel sickness by fixing our gaze on Tualang trees along the trail. We have never seen so many Tualangs in one drive.

These trees are still standing tall thanks to taboo. It’s peculiar pale white trunk and towering height spooks locals and they call it pokok hantu. Axing one invites trouble they say. Thank god, after 4 hours of thumping, Maliau’s entry gateway finally unfolds on my right. Another few hours of dragon’s rib would have severed our heads.

Thin slice of modernity

The worse is not over. After signing in at the gateway office, it’s another 1.5 hours muddy ride into Maliau’s heart. Soon, the air becomes cool and crisp. The mobile phone that goes blank for hours suddenly springs to life when we enter the study center. Apparently, the place has a special satellite dish that taps into the country’s telecom network. We nearly kiss it.

This is the only bit of technology we really appreciate in Maliau. So, no worries about being cut off from the rest of the world.

Also, we are surprised how well the place is maintained by the rangers and staffs. The place is a close knitted settlement of study center, cafeteria, meeting halls and numerous rooms for overnight stays. Beyond its realm, it is 588.4 km2 of pure wilderness without a single manmade item in sight.

We are glad Sabah Foundation has a sound grasp on responsible ecotourism. With minimum buildings and ornamental structures, there’s less tree falling and land clearing. This surely augurs well with conservation.

Crave by water and time

From high ground, Maliau looks like a crater caused by some cosmic accident.

First discover in 1947, past surveyors believed it to be the crash site of a stray meteor. Some attributed it to volcanic activity. Today, the 390 km2 basin is confirmed by geologists to be caused by soil movements.

Maliau’s famed crescent shaped ridge backdrops the sprawling rain forest

Drained by the Maliau River, a highland plateau of soft soil collapsed over time and left a saucer shaped indentation. The remaining curved ridge that embraces the basin is truly a sight to behold. This phenomenon isn’t unique to Maliau Basin. In fact, local colleagues say there is another smaller and lesser known basin called Malibau in the same region.

Walking the talk

We really think Sabah has the best managed ecotourism sites in Malaysia. Unlike national parks elsewhere that aim for mass tourism, Yayasan Sabah is careful not to let commercialism overshadow conservation.

And they take it seriously.

A rare glimpse of rain forest top canopy on suspension bridge built with minimal disturbance to local ecology

Like Mt Kinabalu and Sipadan Island, only limited visitors are allowed daily in Maliau and all groups must be escorted by in-house rangers. This ensures visitors do not act in any manner which disturbs local ecology. Permits specify that rangers are allowed to check visitors’ luggage at anytime to deter the collection of “souvenirs”.

Where to sleepover

Remember, this is not touristy park.

You cannot show up and get a list of tour packages to choose from. This is a conservation site. Accommodation and activity must be pre-arranged weeks in advance. Rangers’ priority is to keep you safe, not impress you with Disney-fied hooplas. In certain stretches of trek, it’s everyone for himself.

So, it’s not the kind of place for family outings or beginners.

Observation tower

Bring plenty of energy bars, water and of course raincoat. Rain is almost certain on daily basis – they don’t call our jungle rainforest for nothing. And it can get pretty damp and cold at night. Depending on your fitness and interests, there are numerous trails that lead to a list of overnight spots as follow;

Lobah Camp – Dorm with hammock beds for 20 person
Nepenthes Camp – Double storey dorm with bunk beds for 15 persons
Ginseng Camp – Dorm with hammock beds for 20 persons
Seraya Camp – Shed with hammock beds for 20 persons
Agathis Camp – Dorm with hammock beds for 30 persons
Belian Camp – Camping ground that fits 20 twin sharing tents

All camp sites come with bare necessities like electricity generators, kitchens and toilets. Water is sourced from rain, usually collected from roofing. For a high-octane trip into the deepest interiors, one can opt for a helicopter ride to Rafflesia Camp. In such case, a hefty cash deposit is required (we hear RM4000).

For inquiry and DIY arrangement, contact Maliau Basin Studies Centre’s office in Tawau. Call 087 742100, fax 087 742101 or email maliau@icsb-sabah.com.my

Go home the other way

After the jaunt in Maliau, don’t backtrack to Tawau. We suggest driving the Sapulut - Nabawan – Keningau route to reach Kota Kinabalu for the flight home. While driving Tawau to Maliau isn’t too bad, the Keningau end is much more interesting. It visually feasts one with local life at the various hamlets and villages. The Muruts make a strong presence here and are prolific boat builders. The journey also inspires one to no end. And the view of Crocker Mountainous Range is certainly breathtaking.

Boat crafted by the Murut natives

There you are, a trip that has all the highs and lows as imagine. It’s pretty clear Maliau isn’t the easiest destination to visit. You’ll spend half the trip wondering if you’re in heaven, and another half in hell. But if you’re no stranger to adventure, Maliau will thrill you to bits.

Buying authentic traditional craft usually involve scouring deep into the interiors. Well, look no further. Now, there is a new and noble way to get your hands on some of Malaysia’s finest traditional handicraft. And the name to google for is Elevyn.com, a great portal that bridge rural finery with fashionistas of the urban world.

Recently we conducted an e-interview with Devan Singaram, one of the founders, to get an overview of what makes the project tick.

1. Tell us something about Elevyn.com’s founders?

Mike Tee and I were running our own IT businesses prior to Elevyn. We felt that our skills and knowledge in the field could be put to doing something more meaningful rather than just “make money”. The field coordinator of the team, Sze Ning, is actively involved in research and documentation work on Orang Asli rights. She has a deep passion for arts and crafts by indigenous groups.

Devan (right), Mike Tee (left)

2. How did all of you meet? Any funny tales?

Initially, Mike and I were sort of hi-bye friends; but both kept bumping into each other. On one occasion, it was in a restaurant, and a “hi man” conversation soon stretched into a 6-hour-tea-and-dinner! We discovered that we’re both Liverpool fans, write code for a living, and wanted to do much more!

3. How did the idea of Elevyn.com came about? Tell us your story.

Elevyn started as a project to document social entrepreneurship projects. We learnt of stories of a world cup just for the homeless, a Sri Lankan who made paper out of elephant dung to save them (by improving villagers’ relationship with elephants) and I backpacked through Thailand meeting hill tribe refugees in Chiang Rai, documenting a project on selling their crafts to Japanese students. We then decided to stop being bystanders and do something more sustainable.

About the time, during her trip to an indigenous village in Sabah, Sze Ning witnessed first-hand the crippling effects of poverty amongst the marginalized communities. The old women relied on their weavings to make a living, and requested help from Sze Ning to sell them in KL. Stumped, she relayed her experience to us, and everything clicked!

4. What’s the hardest part in starting and maintaining Elevyn.com?

Developing the site was the easy part - in spite of the hundreds of hours poured in! One part which we are still figuring out is how to convert enough visitors into buyers to make it a sustainable venture. We’d love to have some help on this!

Chic handmade earrings and necklaces are uniquely yours to coo friends

Also - organizing the NGOs and communities is a learning experience itself. Our supply chain is unique in the sense we allow the artisans, or at least the community based organization, themselves to set the price and ship items directly to buyers. So making sure items are packaged and sent in the most effective way is part of the challenge as we work with several communities.

We are also looking for ways to constantly innovate to bring the buyer and artisan closer together.

5. Any advice for those are thinking of starting their own social aid projects?

Start small, aim for sustainability and not charity to drive a project, if possible. I have started an experimental project called www.unreason.my for those who need help gettting social aid projects going. Check out the blog for more ideas and people who have started something.

Log on Elevyn.com to find out how you can buy and bring the much needed economical spread to Malaysia’s hidden side.

Falling in love with Malaysia is quite easy. Here is a great sunset photo by Brent taken a few months ago and he can’t get enough of it.

Coastal Perak - Copyright Brent Richardson
The snap shot enthusiast from America will be back again in mid Sept 09 and hopes to go on a photo tour with like-minded people to unveil open more breathtaking scenes around Ipoh with OO. Anyone interested to travel with him can drop us an email. Contact us.

If northern Sabah is a woman, I want to marry her.

She has natural beauty, cultured and hell can she dresses up. And although she may not be singing all the high notes of 21st century, she has enough to take one’s senses off with an oomph.

The sun sets in Marudu Bay with a fancy finish

Ignored for decades, the northern tip is a world not quite adjusted to new age. Take for example the fried free-range chicken I eat for breakfast. It has textures that can severe dental features. Leathery tough alright, but I swear it’s the most flavoursome chicken I had for a long long time.

Yet, the little meal tells a story. It depicts Borneo’s idyllic charm, untouched by mass tourism and modernity.

The thrill goes beyond sightseeing. For every great journey, destination is only half the deal. Winging it with a mix bag of characters completes it. My Kota Kinabalu – Kudat trip includes a reforestation project director, a retired accountant and an intrepid seafarer. With an anthropology professor, an award winning botanist and an eco-design architect stirred in, the days gallop along with astute narrations from these experts.

We share many memorable moments too, from watching Marudu Bay’s magical sunset to throwing up over Pulau Balambangan’s rough sea. We are bonded by what Sabah hurls at us in 5 days, at full fury.

For many, Sabah is a region visited for lofty peaks, touristy wildlife parks and coral islands. We, however, prefer to see the other side.

Paddy and parang

The northern route isn’t popular, but that can be a good thing.

Roughly 180km from tip to toe, the countryside remains unscathed by modernity and mass tourism. It is indeed a time capsule of Borneo’s purest life.

The first hamlet that greets one on the trail is Kota Belud, the epicentre of Bajau run paddy fields and hub for fine machetes or parangs. These are no ordinary parangs as Bajaus are warrior blacksmiths. And for the best parangs, Kampung Siasai is the place to go.

I like collecting authentic native craftworks. Spotting a blade at a village workshop I fancy, “RM75” is the stern answer when I ask for price. It is artistic, handy and uniquely shaped. Hence, it is a steal for such fine quality of craftsmanship.I wholeheartedly agree and as I slip into my pocket for money, the blacksmith changes his mind and quips, “OK, I’d let you have it at RM60”!

This is the strangest bargain I ever aced – getting low price I didn’t ask for. Wondering who is doing the reverse psychology here.

Rungus heartland

In hamlets like Kota Marudu and Matunggong, the local scene takes a personality split.

Over 40,000 Rungus make a potent presence here. If you didn’t know, the word Kadazan Dusun doesn’t fully depict Sabah’s residents. There are about 65 sub-ethnics in Malaysia’s most eastern state. Each has its distinct culture, language and culinary delights.

I stop asking locals which group they belong to after the first day in Sabah. It’s all too mind boggling. And remember, locals hate generalization. I meet a fisherman who insists that he is a Bugis, not Melayu, when I ask him his race. Everyone is proud of their pedigree.

As for the Rungus, angular walls of their traditional long houses are the local maxim. Another great feature of the Rungus culture is they way they doll up. All men and women own a chockfull of bracelets, bangles and trinkets. These accessories are slipped onto the wrist according to sequence dictated by age old tradition.

And oh, Rungus womenfolk are born to weave.

Sisingal- Several strings of beads tied together, to be worn around the head

Pinakol - Bands of geometric and human figures beadwork usually worn over the shoulders.

Everyone is trained to process jungle materials into robust baskets and tapestries from young. An elderly man shows us a 50 years old rattan knapsack which served his parents in the past. The relic keeps a sturdy shape and looks like it could last another 50 years more, although aging has carbonized it.

Simply put, visiting a Rungus village is like rummaging through your grandma’s closet. It’s a visual feast of sort.

Show me the honey

Roughly 1hr drive north Kota Marudu, we hit Gombizau village. The air is humming with soft almost hypnotic “tung-tung, tung-tung” rhyme. Everyone is either banging away with raw steel plates or fine tuning finished gongs.

We drive deeper into the village and another interesting view unfolds. Part of the “one village one product” scheme mooted by local government, 9 women banded together in 2003 to start a community-based bee farming project. Nowadays, the scheme includes a short guided tour around the hives.

For RM5 per person, one gets to thrill the taste buds with freshly cut honeycomb. The village was dotted with old trees bearing wild bee hives in olden days. That was how locals developed the skill for honey harvesting and used it for barter trade. However, most trees have been cut and replaced by oil palms in the past decades. Locals had turned to bee farming to continue the age old tradition.

I learn a good buying tip here.

If a shop offers bottled honey of same colour, they are most probably fakes. According to our guide, each hive produce honey of different shades of brown because nectar is collected from flowers of various plants, areas and seasons. Hence, difference in viscosity, colour and flavour is to be expected.

Wind swept and sea tossed

Sabah’s timeless appeal spans over the ocean. It is really exciting. I feel as if I am voyaging into uncharted latitudes. But, I am barely 10 nautical miles off Kudat’s shore. Again, a myriad of ethnicities like the Ubian, Sukuk and Bonggi pepper the local population.

Never sail the waters off Kudat coast on a full stomach

No one really knows how these parts are managed. Kudat’s northern edge is really close to Phillippines waters and it appears wild and deserted.

Pulau Banggi is the main draw here. And despite its sheer size (slightly larger than Singapore), population is sparse and sadly the poorest Malaysians live here centred around Karakit.

It is probably no coincidence that people rarely venture here. The wind swept choppy sea is enough to shoot anyone’s nerves to pieces. When we see our boat vessel operator puke, we know it won’t be long when our turns come. What started out as an island hopping trip progresses into a marathon of throw-ups. Yet, I consider it the favourite part of my Sabah jaunt.

On a desert island, we stumble on wild Tongkat Ali patches everywhere we look. My botanist travel mate has a field day cooing how plants thrived and evolved naturally in an isolated island. It’s as though he discovered a lost world. Funny how nature never holds still; biology will find ways to live in the most hostile setting.

Bugis community only fish at night on bagangs, not boats. Bamboo structures are put up on shallow waters and lamps are hung low on water surface to attract fishes for netting.

Come to think of it, what I really love about the northern Sabah is its innocence. The thinly peopled landscape and coconut draped shoreline.

I’d say it again: Northern Sabah makes a good wife.

Occasionally, she throws tantrums and the relationship may not be smooth sailing. But she’ll always have your heartstrings on her finger tips.

Travel Tips

To see the countryside up close, self driving is the way to go. Getting lost is fairly impossible. Mount Kinabalu outcrop is always there for you to check your bearings.

Contrary to what people say, Sabah’s countryside roads are well paved and not short of signage. It pays to drive slower though as marauding goats, cows and chickens are part of the local pedestrian scene.

All telcos’ mobile phone signals are strong in the region. In choppy waters over far flung Pulau Banggi, my hand phone could still muster 2 bars.

For overnights, Kota Belud and Kudat are good places to pad as hotels and eateries are easy to come by. If you prefer something unusual, try Bavanggazo village’s traditional Rungus longhouse. The overnight package is priced at RM58 per person with dinner and breakfast included. Contact 088 622524 for bookings.

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Editor: This article was published in New Straits Times dated June 02, 2009.

Good reads after this

1. Road map of Sabah
2. Climb Mt Kinabalu with the heart, not feet

“Stink like hell, but tastes like heaven”. The Concise Oxford Dictionary of Botany certainly didn’t mince words when it comes to describing Bombacaceae durio zibethinus.

The Malaysian Agriculture Department is perhaps more specific. In their list, codes like D2, D24, D99 and D158 depict each sub-species and a hefty 190 clones have been recorded since 1934. Nevertheless, for Malaysians, name like “Hor Lor”, “Raja Kunyit” or “Dato Nina” sounds more appealing.

“Durian with an attitude” – that’s the cliché for the fruit nowadays.

A variety from Kampung Beserah, Kuantan, obtains the nickname “kucing mendengkur” from its flesh pulps which cuddle like napping kittens. “Ang heh”, meaning red prawn, has reddish flesh is another famous “attitude” durian from Balik Pulau, Penang. There’s also one called “bantal emas” or golden pillow from Chepor, Perak. The bronze-skinned “durian tembaga” still makes an impression to older generation.

Yet, at the dawn of 21st century, a thorny issue has started to rear its ugly head. This has something to do with pre-ripe harvesting in Thailand. Everyone knows durian’s Thai cousins are more famous the world over. This is largely due to pre-ripe harvesting practices in Thailand which enables durians to be shipped to far places. This is not possible with ripe durians because they go bad in days. Pre-ripe picking robs off the pungent flavour. Hence, Thai durians sold outside SE Asia lack the punch and give durians a bland reputation. Commercialization also caused cultivation of only productive varieties; hence Thai durians are slowly loosing genetic diversity. Wild durian trees are culled are replaced with marketable ones. Today, very few types exist and durians from Thailand do not have a variety of tastes like its Malaysian relatives. Oranges, apples and grapes have suffered similar fate in western countries.

Back home, let’s hope a lesson is learnt from this and wild durian trees should be conserved.

The fuss about durian is legendary. Mind you, even the smell has “flavour”.

Funny thing is, most Caucasians with a liking for strong cheese would freak out with one sniff of the fruit. Once in the mouth, with nostril pinched, the flavour seems to build to an unbearable threshold. Throwing up is conceivably the only reflex left.

Ask Andrew Z - The host of popular Bizarre Food TV travel series is known for his strong threshold of quirky food. But finally, it was durian that floored him in seconds

Well, look on the other side. Naturalist Alfred Russle Wallace has this to say, “To eat durian is a new sensation worth a voyage to the East”. And he said these 150 years ago. So, do yourself a flavour. A trip to Malaysia is never complete without dabbling with durian.

A nose for durian

So, how does one know if a durian is worth its price? Those hung up ones are normally guaranteed buys, usually commercialized clones. But do expect to dig deep into your pockets.

For countryside varieties, ask the seller to help you. But the truth is – your guess is as good as his. Buying wholesale from villagers, sellers don’t have the faintest idea on quality.

So, here’s the low down.

A good buy is all logic. Give it a good shake and feel if there’s any jiggle inside. Dry pulp “jiggles” and likely to be sweet. Wet ones don’t jiggle because they are soft and gluey. However, some aficionados prefer the wet type. Beware, unripe pulps can jiggle too.

Next tip, take a deep breath. Ripe ones give off aroma. Unripe ones smell like fleshly cut grass. Durian is best enjoyed 8-10 hrs from the time it drops off from the tree. A bit of aging brings out a good flavour. For clue, the stem tip should be slightly damp with sap, indicating the fruit is still fresh. Dry stem means the fruit is at least 2 days old.

Never be put off by sight of worm holes. It is a good indication that the durians are grown in pesticide free conditions. It is no secret that commercial plantations indiscriminately feed trees with chemicals through roots. When pesticide is absorbed and goes all the way up, fruits taste foul to pests like insects and squirrel - all done in the name of productivity. Chemical-tainted fruits leave a slight numb on the tip of your tongue. Therefore, it’s safer to share the fruit with pests. If they eat it, it’s clean.

Lastly, if kept in plastic bag, fresh fruit emits water vapor. This indicates the fruit is still “breathing” (read: fresh) and you got your money worth.

Things you should know about durian

1. Believe it or not, the “King of Jungle” has a lot of respect for the “King of Fruits”. The mighty tiger has a soft spot of durian and courteous enough to leave seeds nicely piled up after a feast. So, if you see heaps of seeds in the jungle, don’t say we didn’t warn you.

2. Eating durian causes body’s metabolism rate to ramp up. For this reason, locals never eat durian after consuming alcoholic drinks because they believe it causes sudden stroke. Locals also avoid eating durians at night to prevent “heaty” body which disturbs sleep.

3. You know people always say food that tastes bad is always good aphrodisiac in Asia. Well, durian is one of them. Many locals believe eating durian makes one frisky. That’s enough reason for most beginners to give it a try!

4. No hotel in Malaysia will allow guests to bring in durians for any reason. The smell is hard to neutralize and can linger on for days. Hotel housekeepers are trained to throw guests out if they’re caught with durians in the room.

5. Durian is the only fruit with high cholesterol content. If you are watching your weight or has heart problems, stay clear from it.

6. We believe people who hate durian didn’t have a good start. The first bite is most crucial. For beginners, choose pulps that are firm (the soggy type you’d learn to like later) and imagine you’re biting on a ripe banana that’s flavoured with strong vanilla and brandy. Some varieties can taste milky too. It’s all in the mind. Once you get pass the first chew, you’ll love it forever.

The jungle holds nothing back, neither do these ladies.

Recently we played host to an awesome group of intrepid ladies and they certainly showed the jungle what they are made of.

All were mommies with families living in KL. It was a female bonding trip planned weeks ahead to escape the shackles of city life.

Armed with “anything goes” attitude and hope for good weather (it was raining in the past days), they humped into deep jungle without much expectation but the wit of Malaysian rainforest rose to the occasion by greeting everyone with two Rafflesia blooms. They were also visually feasted with a colony of rare Etlingera venusta in full glory. Sometimes called the Malay rose, its unsurpassed beauty and porcelain-like petals had everyone’s camera firing at full blast.

It’s probably no coincidence that more and more urbanites venture to the countryside to seek solace. It has more substance than a day at the shopping mall. Long after the dust settles, trips like these give everyone great memories to take home.

When the going gets tough, the tough visit Orang Asli villages.

Appropriate enough, we know many could not shake off the fear of exploring far frontier. Snakes, carnivourous wildlife and what if natives are cannibals? But if you are looking for answers, the only enjoyable way is to wing it with friends.

Thanks ladies for taking a stab at it.

Rainforest drape Malaysia with green exuberance, but how many kids have seen the real thing?

Modernity has nudged the new generation to shopping arcades, video games centers and disney-fied theme parks more often than not and today we have a growing population that is oblivious about how their forefathers blend so well with the jungle for medicine, food and survival.

So, when the teachers of Sekolah Kebangsaan Lahat called on us to teach their students a thing or two about what makes the rainforest unique, we jumped at the opportunity. On 11th April, together with intrepid Cikgu Umi Hanifah, the teacher in charge of Pendidikan Moral Tingkatan 4, we went on a jolly trip into the Saoing Forest Reserve for a hefty view of unfamiliar plants and habitats.

For the first time, everyone got to see how beautiful untouched forest is and why conservation is so important. This may be small steps but if every teacher is as resourceful as the ones in SK Lahat, kids growing up will be future advocates of natural heritage preservation and we no longer need to worry about Malaysia ruining itself like many developed countries with little trees to show.

Editor: We got nominated in 2008, read this. We made it again for 2009. This just came in a few days ago and we are surprised. We are honoured because only selected responsible travel networks which truly give back to rural communities around the world are identified and nominated. So far, only OO Malaysia and Ivatan House from the Phillippines are nominated for the region of South East Asia.

See Changemaker’s website. Click this to read comments about us.

Below is the excerpt of email sent to us …

RE: Your Nomination to the National Geographic Competition and Our New Tour Operator Prize

Congratulations for being nominated for the 2009 Geotourism Challenge: Power of Place Competition! You have been nominated because of your great work and contribution towards sustainable tourism.

Ashoka’s Changemakers is also excited to announce the Tourdust.com scholarship - which is of particular relevance to your field of work, as part of the Geotourism Challenge 09. The sooner you enter, the more opportunities you’ll have for exposure and funding. Just look at what’s in store when you enter now:

1. Take advantage of potential funding: there are many prizes and resources offered to winners of the competition. Among them, Tourdust (the marketplace for locally-sourced travel experiences), is supporting a scholarship prize to identify and support innovative and socially responsible geotourism businesses such as tour operators and activity guides.

2. Potential for media exposure from journalists viewing the competition site: an aggressive marketing campaign keeps the competition in front of more than 600 journalists that are looking for stories and information.

3. More opportunity for comments from experts and visitors: one of the most valuable aspects of the on-line competition is the feedback and insights provided by expert commentators and visitors to the site.

4. Greater access to the geotourism network: the global geotourism community can help broaden your impact and expand your audience.

Testimonials from organizations in this network state that their entire business model changed for the better thanks to the insights they gained through their involvement in the platform. We look forward to reading your entry and should you have any questions or require assistance please do not hesitate to contact me.

Warm Regards,
Devon Valldejuli Butler
Global Outreach Marketing Coordinator
Ashoka’s Changemakers

1700 N Moore Street, Suite 2000 Arlington,
VA 22209-1929 USA
T:401-474-9307 E:dbutler@changemakers.net