Take The Path Less Ordinary

Rugged places, flower patches and a whole lot of leeches. “Now I know why you asked for our weight, height and fitness when we signed up for this trek”, quipped Kasey between huffing and puffing on the gruesome uphill trail.

We recently hosted a lovely couple, Kasey and Michele from New Jersey US, into raw Malaysian jungle as part of their short one day getaway from the hustle and bustle of capital Kuala Lumpur (KL) where Michele attended a conference. Starting out early at 6:30am, they traveled 2 hrs outward KL and reached Ipoh our homebase at 8:30am. After a quick local breakfast of local staple Gopeng noodles, we trundled in 4×4 Landrover to access the inner part of Bukit Kinta native reserve. It was a ride from 21st century into a primitive village where hidden Orang Asli communities live in bamboo huts and live off the land.

After a short exchange of pleasantry with Long the native jungle guide, it was time to step into pure wilderness. But before that, there was a catch. A few days ago, Long’s brother crossed path with a huge snake with body circumference of a human thigh on the same trail! A warning has been issued to villagers.

Stepping into raw jungle has its peril. Nice and nasty is always found on the same spot. Thankfully, that hairy tale was tempered by a double whammy waiting at the end of the trail.

Yes, the Drennens were visually feasted with 2 Rafflesia blooms; a rare take by any standard. Although it takes 8-9 months for a Rafflesia bud to grow, the flower only blooms for 1 day. So, besides pure grit and gut to trek leech-infested jungle, one also need a lot of luck to cross path with a full bloom. When one stumble on 2 blooms - on the same spot, on the same day - it is a feat.

A bee-eater’s life is more like a plot taken out of TV soap series. Deceit, sleaze and power struggle, almost everything naughty and nice you can think of happens.

Bee-eaters dig burrows for nesting. When a female leaves her nest to feed, other females may sneak in to lay eggs, fooling the neighbour into raising a stranger’s brood. And try topping this, if a male flies away from the burrow leaving his mate unguarded, other males may seize the opportunity to copulate with the female. Robbery, harassing and feuding colors the life of a bird that refuses to play safe.

True to its name, bee-eaters eat bees; although they may hunt other flying insects like moths, dragonflies and butterflies. They built for mid-air snatch. It has the agility of a super sleek jet fighter that can match its prey’s every twist and swoop. Brutally efficient in its de-venoming process, the bee-eater thrashes the insect repeatedly onto branches causing the dizzy bee to flush its toxin. It then rubs the stinger off with bark before eating. It has a huge appetite too. Researchers once found a few dozens of bees in the stomach of a bee-eater near a hive.

Blue Tailed Bee Eater (Merops philippinus) found in Malaysia. Local birders call it “Berek-berek” or “Beberek Sawah”.

Like all members of the Meropidae family, a colony’s pecking order defines which birds will get a chance to breed - and which one won’t. Mating season is time for alliances and intrigue. Nest helpers, sons or uncles, help feed their father’s or brother’s chicks. These helpers are usually males whose own nests fail due to natural causes.

In Malaysia, bee-eaters can be found along its coastline and they usually flock around open paddy fields, grassland and coconut groves.

Sightseeing comes in various speed. Some like cars, some cycle, but let’s agree hiking is best to pick up little gems that make the world interesting.

Trotting under shadowy canopy of riverbank forest recently, we found a strange plant snug under the damp bamboo grove. On first look, it looked like orchid. But knowing rain forest orchids usually cling on trees for sunlight, we kept our minds open and study the exotic plant closer.

Winged beauty - We took home this shot to help us ID the plant later

It was a Taccaceae of the Liliopsida family alright, but it was unlike any Tacca we have seen. It wasn’t a Tacca integrifolia which has white “wings” and not Tacca chantrieri which spots 3 petal “wings”. Although both look nothing like bats, folia hobbyists and botanical websites over the internet bestowed these common Taccas the name Black Bat Lily out of confusion. If they didn’t know, these Taccas are better known by Indochina locals as Tiger Whiskers or Cat Whiskers Lily. In Malaysia, villagers call them Keladi Murai.

Besides its bizarre bloom, healing property of the plant is just as fascinating. Local medicine men collect Keladi Murai and use it to treat piles, hypertension and diabetes. Orang Asli natives rub Tacca leaves on skin to remedy itch and rashes caused by poisonous caterpillar. And if that doesn’t impress you, in 2007, Tokyo University’s School of Pharmacy has isolated five new glycosides from the plant for medicinal use.

Getting back at our discovery, now, this wild specimen we saw has skyward and black Gothic looking wings. Orang Asli kids who accompanied us mentioned something about “vampire flower” and didn’t want to elaborate. Well, it did looked every inch unearthly we agree. Is this the elusive Black Bat Lily Tacca asperata ?

As we failed to identify this specimen and dusk was fast approaching, taking quick photos and making our way out of the jungle was priority then. If anyone stumbled on this post and know its scientific name, kindly ping us. It would be nice to learn from the experts.

Generally, everyone is sane, rational and believes there’s always a scientific explanation for everything. But for people who live and breathe the jungle, supernatural occurrences are real and not to be taken lightly.

Scientists and archeologists can uncover fossils and ancient leftovers to trace early life on earth but who can tell what other undetected forces that also made the jungle home since primordial times long before the arrival of dinosaurs or mankind? If one believes there is god, then surely demons are on the other end of the spectrum. And in the new millennia where most land is draped by concrete and steel, where does one expect these immortals to retreat to? Don’t forget, the Malaysian rainforest has existed for 130 million years. Darwinism may have included things we cannot see.

If local jungle-farers introduce them as “dinosour footprint” leaves, they are being kind and don’t want to spook you. However, the Malay name is “tapak hantu”, which literally translates to devil’s footprint. Thanks to its name, countryside children cringe at the sight of the leaves.

When one combs the internet for jungle guides or trips, it becomes clear that not many operators dish out itineraries that involve deep jungle or multiple day treks. As much as there is good demand for authentic rain forest experiences, lack of good jungle guides who are well versed with the unwritten laws of the jungle is a stumbling block. Hence, most tour offerings are confined to touristy and developed national parks.

A trip into unpolished rain forest requires more than a guide who has a good grasp on flora and fauna. He must also have a healthy respect for unseen forces and win them over by being courageous, honest and courteous. A guide who is bad mannered, brags, cut trees un-necessarily or shows disrespect to the jungle would most certainly put everyone in hot soup.

The jungle is a hotbed of inhabitants - visible and invisible. As visitors, we can only heed time tested rules and advices - call it taboos if you prefer - passed down from people who experienced mishaps and lucky enough to live to tell their stories. The outdoors may the expression many Westerners use to describe woods or forested areas but for those in the know, visitors are actually stepping “indoors” into a domain suspended in time and dimension.

Believe it or not, the followings may be thought provoking but they are good advices to heed ….

Never a rose without the prick

The rainforest is shaded by tall trees and sunlight rarely touches its forest floor. Under these circumstances, plants evolve to compensate for the lack of sunlight and devise other ways to attract insects for pollination. Flowering is not the norm. However, if a beautiful flower presents itself in the middle of nowhere - back off. Do not touch it or worst take a sniff at it. This is the most dangerous sign that something un-natural is in the vicinity.

On the rocks

What do you do if you stumble on a large rock in the middle of the jungle? We know this defies logic but we can attest it does happen. In Mount Chante, during a student nature study trek, we did crossed path with a huge boulder out of the blue. It’s hard to imagine how such large and heavy entity can end up in the jungle (see picture). Again, this is not normal. Don’t go around carving “I was here” on the rock face or horse around.

Silently ask for permission in English “Tok, excuse me for trespassing” if you prefer or Malay “Minta lalu tok”, and proceed along your journey. Not long ago, during a recon operation, an army officer took a leak near a large rock and the next moment his lips were jammed shut. Local shaman has to be called in to cure the condition.

(We usually address jungle spirits as “tok”, the short name for “datok” which literally means the “elder one” or “respected one”, as an act of submission)

Fool’s paradise

Serene, lush foliage and surreal Eden-like setting. While everyone who walks into the jungle hopes for moment like this, sometimes finding serendipity is not always a good thing. Especially in a place that is windless and chirp from birds is strangely missing. If a place looks too beautiful to believe, turn back.

Places like these are haunts for Orang Bunians, forest fairies, and it is dangerous to rest or play in the same spot. Tales of trekkers been spirited away or go missing pepper Malay folklore and they are largely attributed to Orang Bunian. Touted as keepers of the rain forest, they may appear in the form of humans - handsome or pretty, clean looking and surprisingly fragrant - to make trekkers run around the bushes. Only those with pure hearts would outlast their tomfoolery.

An experienced jungle guide will always include the “rotan penyesat” as part of the packing list. A puzzle formed by two interlocking rattan loops, it is usually placed along the trail when the guide feels the trekking party is being haunted by Orang Bunian and in danger of getting lost. The puzzle requires high intelligence to solve and Orang Bunian is said to be very fond of playing with it, leaving trekkers to make their journey without disturbance.

Keeping big mouth shut

If you see, hear or smell something but your trekking partners did not, stop asking about it over and over again. When this happens, an experienced jungle guide would never reply to your questions until everyone is out of the woods. When something weird is making the rounds, it is best to deny its existence and stay calm. Fear is infectious and if your trekking companions are being badgered by odd questions, it may spook everyone and the collective semangat or inner strength of the trekking party will dip and exposes everyone to supernatural danger.

Name calling

It’s never a good idea to holler or go yodeling your friend’s name to get his attention; something “else” may answer back instead. Name calling should be avoided, but if it’s absolutely necessary, use code names, short names or nicknames. Local junglists believe calling names in deep forest invite attention from mischievous spirits. Likewise, if you hear your name being call out from nowhere, it’s best to ignore it.

Bed on the wrong side

Although land clearing along the track is the easiest option to set camp, it is definitely a bad call. Malaysian army personnel are always told incessantly by trainers: Never sleep on the beaten path.

Touch wood - All Malaysian jungle natives have a good collection of talismans to protect themselves spiritually at home and during overnights in the outdoors. Among many, the Raja Kayu (reddish sticks on left) is the most powerful. The wood is surprisingly heavy and oil oozes out from its surface when burnt. It is believed that a person or animal will become mad if hit by Raja Kayu. It makes the best repellent for evil spirits. Most Orang Asli village heads, shamans and medicine men keep at least one Raja Kayu at home to help ward of evil spirits and charms inflicted on them by enemies.

A jungle track is an evolution by itself. Almost all paths are carved by wildlife centuries ago and gradually used by humans for whatever reasons. At the same time, spirits – good or bad – also use the trails to traverse around the jungle. Simply put, it is a highway of sorts. If one sleeps along the traffic, being “run over” by supernatural forces is a certainty. There are confirmed reports where army groups base-up along the trail and found themselves waking up the next morning 3 maps away. Always set camp at least 20 feet off any trail.

Some species of tree barks are burned at night around the camp and the smoke is believed to shoo off wandering bad spirits. We think it is a great repellent for dangerous wildlife too. One whiff of the stench and you’d know why.

Other bad spots for overnights are river banks and near waterfalls. These are said to be favourite haunts of evil spirits. Anyway, if they don’t get you, tigers looking for a good bath probably will.

Basic instinct

Like animals, humans are instinctive. If we let our feelings flow, we’d know something bad is about to happen. Don’t suppress it.

A good jungle guide will call off an excursion if he feels “tak sedap hati” (literally: uneasiness of the heart) half way. The dude humps around the jungle more times than most people in the world. Pardon the pun, but he is almost an animal himself. If he feels “tak sedap hati”, don’t argue with him. People who walk in and out of the jungle develop primitive intuition for danger. Urbanites do not have this ability because all gut feelings are tuned to money making

Don’t do it the hard way

Keras is the Malay word that means hard or spiritually dangerous. During sunset and twilight hours, it is not advisable to go hobnobbing in the jungle because the period is known as keras. It’s a time when demons and spirits come out to play and cause havoc. If a part of forest is touted as keras by locals, then it is best to stay away because it is home to demons and bad spirits. Some old peculiar trees may also get the title keras if bad accidents or supernatural mishaps occurred within their surroundings. Simply put, it is not good to hump around the forest without some insider account from the locals.

Eawww …. what’s that smell?

Of all senses, the nose is your best early warning system against the presence of wildlife – and unearthly entities. Animals like to mark their territory with urine and droppings. Same goes for jungle spirits. Jembalang (vampire) and other aggressive spirits mark their joints with horrendous stench while female form of spirits like langsuir or pelesit (banshee) prefer scent that reminds one of Chanel No.5 or something more expensive. Yep, spirits can have good taste too. But seriously, these two are the most dangerous ones to watch out for and they could appear anytime of the day, not necessary at night.

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Editor: Datuk Khoo tells a tale that happened way back in the 60s when his team was assigned to escort a British officer into the jungle. At 4pm they encountered laughter that seemed to echo around the jungle. It continued at night. Sleeping inside an Orang Asli hut, everyone heard swoosh noises, as though something airborne was hollering around the hut. Luckily, a Malay private was experienced enough for matters like this and recited holy verses from the Quran as protection.

“Take it from me” said Datuk Khoo after narrating the story, “This is no joke. Modernity aside, spooks do happen in the jungle. Civilian, army personnel or holidaymaker alike, the jungle can be a friend if one knows how to manage it”.

Birds of same feather sometimes don’t flock together. One such fine example is coastal Perak. The shoreline is practically teeming with birds of every pomp and pageantry, all congregating together to feed on nature’s bounty.

Kuala Gula needs no introduction but that’s just a blip in Perak’s map. Imagine the scale of opportunity if one scour the 200km over mangrove swamp forest that flank the state’s west coast.

We are talking about the corridor of Bagan Datoh - Tanjung Piandang. This is the best region to paddle and waddle from tip to toe of the state to catch a glimpse of Malaysian avian splendour, notably November-March period, when colonies of birds fly in from inland Asia continent to escape the winter.

Believe us, the bird scene will give you a solid jolt. Bearing in mind bird-watchers in peninsular Malaysia have recorded over 600 bird species, one can easily take home dozens of bird species on film, or digital storage, if you spread your wings over to the sleepy hollows. And the best part, there are even spots to go on a seafood spree.

Raptor watch

Between Bagan Datoh and Pantai Remis, the shores are somewhat inundated with the ramshackle of fishing villages, not much birds, but Segari Forest Reserve is a worthy stopover. While a trickle of visitors find their way to Segari Turtle Sanctuary Reserve, not many know the forest also hides a lonely bay called Teluk Senangin.

The beach is flanked by a secondary forest and its canopy is good cover to spy on raptors like Grey-faced Buzzards, Osprey, Rufous-bellied Eagle and sometimes Oriental Pied Hornbill, which is also commonly found in nearby Pangkor island. Budget chalets run by villagers in Teluk Senangin are good places to pad and call it a day.

Going off grid

After Teluk Senangin, skip heavy-populated Pantai Remis and make your next stop at Kampong Sungai Kerang.

Sometime back, the State Land Office leased islets nearby for oil palm planting but the project didn’t kick off well leaving many parts ravaged and unattended. Strike a deal with any boatman in Sungai Kerang jetty and make a 20 minutes ride to the adjacent Pulau Pasir Hitam. Once there, man-made paths and abandon agricultural grounds will make it easy enough to peek at local feathered residents. Keep your eyes peeled for unique birds like Blue Tailed Bee-Eater, Eurasian Curlew and Dusky Eagle Owl which preys on oil palm plantation’s rat population.

This is no man’s land and overnights are only possible if you are geared up for camping. Don’t forget to pay the boatman generously to ensure he comes back for the return trip!

Make it to the mangroves

Drive northward and you’ll bump into Terong, a hamlet stuck in time warp. Locals walk and talk slow here.

Take it from us, don’t knock yourself out trying to explain the concept of bird watching to them. All you get is a bewildered look followed by “Huh, demo nak apo ?” Cut the chase, find any boatman loitering around the jetty and tell him you want to go sightseeing in Pulau Terong. For the best communication breakthrough, just say, “Nak makan angin”.

On Saturdays and Sundays, most fishermen don’t go to sea and would be glad to give you a boat tour for a small fee (we paid RM100 for a 2 hrs cruise around the mangrove islet). Pulau Terong is a mangrove forest reserve protected by Wildlife Dept and it is brimming with wetland birds. As insurance, bring along lifejackets as navigating mangrove swamp on a buckling boat can be hairy. Switch off the engine and paddle to prevent spooking the birds.

Tall order

The corridor between Kuala Sepetang and Tanjung Piandang impresses one to no end.

Although Kuala Gula is now world famous, other hotspots like Pulau Kalumpang, Pulau Selinsing and Pulau Sangga Besar deserve a mention. They are such a melting pot it is impossible for a birdwatcher to have a bad day.

And the holy-grail to watch out for is most definitely Milky Stork. Kuala Gula’s mangrove draped shoreline is one of the last places in Malaysia where these majestic birds are thriving in the wild. Seeing them would be like hitting lottery.

Somewhat unsung, also keep a look out for its bigger and taller relative the Lesser Adjutant. Bald but beautiful, an adult Lesser Adjutant stands at 1.2m and has a striking yellow long neck. Often seen perching on the tallest trees, one can hear their call from miles away. Don’t forget to veer over to inland paddy plains and coconut groves of Kerian too. Exotic birds tucked in these habitats are equally a visual feast.

The best way to travel

The region is best scoured on bicycle, a wing and prayer.

It is a practical way to cover large area and quiet enough to sneak up on birds for close up photography. Start your journey early in the morning and take breaks along the way. Food and water would not be a problem as one is most certain to cross path with warungs that pepper the countryside.

It is usual for locals to be wary of outsiders but where words fail, a smile can work wonders.

How to get there

We suggest that you start the birding blitz from Bagan Datoh and travel north. Because mornings are the best time for bird watching, and especially photography, you’ll appreciate the morning sun’s ray pointing west ward over the shoreline where early birds come out to play. This gives the best photography effects.

From KL, one can reach Bagan Datoh via Kuala Selangor coastal road. If you are coming from Penang, border town Parit Buntar should be the gateway to the coastal region. Chalets for overnights are available at Kuala Gula, Kuala Sepetang, Pantai Remis, Teluk Senangin and of course Lumut.

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Editor: This article written by us was published in New Straits Times Feb 17, 2009 edition in its travel column. To view, click this …

Bird watchers who are keen to scour Perak’s shoreline can contact us for customized outings.

Sleeping under a leaky roof has strange effect on people.

One becomes creative.

Bertam palm thatched roofing need a change every three years due to its bio-degradable properties. But if you do it often enough, like Bah On, someday you’d get tired and veer beyond the norm.

Last weekend during the Chinese New Year holiday, we dropped by our jungle buddy’s place and caught him putting up a new home for his expanding family. The first thing that struck us was the shiny top and concrete-pile footing. While we are purist, one must admit Bah On’s new design looks cool to the core. However, make no mistake. The ethnic Semai native isn’t about to let the stunt stick out like a sore thumb.

What will neighbors say? Which self-respecting Orang Asli would want to live in a hut that’s topped with metal sheets ? It’s heresy !

The solution: He plans to hide the tin roof by stacking dummy thatched roof on top of it to maintain the “Orang Asli look”.

You gotta give it to him, this dude is a genius.

It happens often enough in the rainforest and after countless nights of insomnia, it would be a dream to live under something that doesn’t give you a good bath every time a storm sets in. And so, we forgive Bah On. Hey, the man works hard and tin roof isn’t cheap.

Using a kind of tree he calls “brek” (we have no idea), he pieced the house frame meticulously all by himself. According to Bah On, he has to work fast - very fast. “Brek” tree can only be used for carpentry works up to day 3 from the day it was freshly logged. After that, the log dries and hardens to a degree that it is almost impossible to nail or saw.

Unlike wooden stilts that deteriorate with weathering and termites, concrete-piles last much longer. In traditional bamboo huts, stilts are usually the biggest problem. All it takes is one rotten stilt to throw the whole house off balance. And since stilt anchors the main frame, changing it means tearing down a chunk of the house and compromising its stability.

He claimed the house can be built from scratch in 3 weeks, no sweat. It can be built faster if other softer types of wood were used ie. those with more than 3-day-workability-shelf-life period. The wife helped out by weaving the thatched palm pieces.

It should be ready next week. And hopefully, besides us, no one would’ve noticed the tin part and the new house can pretend it is just another Orang Asli jungle hut in the hood.

With the tag “Muzik Terkini” (latest music), ERA FM bank on popular personalities like Aznil and Din Beramboi (left) to kick start the morning. The station dishes out real-time low downs on traffic and weather conditions of town around Malaysia. Gossips are part of the menu of course. The station targets young adult listeners.

Want to listen to other stations? Choose from a list of local Malay or English radio stations here.

24 hours of non-stop news, talks and music, this station is perfect for those interested in everything Malaysian in whatever time zone. Run by Bernama (Malaysian National News Agency), it was started in Sept 3rd, 2007 to compliment Bernama TV. With representatives neatly tucked in all levels of government bodies and regional offices around the country, the station prides itself for real-time news feed.

Want to listen to other stations? Choose from a list of local Malay or English radio stations here.

If you think her voice can move mountains, wait until you see the bombshell in person.

Linda Onn (right) is today’s most popular DJ in Malaysia and she anchors Sinar FM’s afternoon sessions. The Malay medium radio station is also highly popular with the 6-10am rush hours when drivers tune into Sinar Pagi (morning glory) to enjoy the zany musings of Abang Jem, Kak Engku and Khairil thrashing out with call ins - warts and all.

Want to listen to other stations? Choose from a list of local Malay or English radio stations here.