Take The Path Less Ordinary

Scientists and archeologists can uncover fossils and ancient leftovers to trace early life on earth but who can tell what other undetected forces that also made the jungle home since primordial times long before the arrival of dinosaurs or mankind? If one believes there is god, then surely demons are on the other end of the spectrum. And in the new millennia where most land is draped by concrete and steel, where does one expect these immortals to retreat to? Don’t forget, the Malaysian rainforest has existed for 130 million years. Darwinism may have included things we cannot see.

If local jungle-farers introduce them as “dinosour footprint” leaves, they are being kind and don’t want to spook you. However, the Malay name is “tapak hantu”, which literally translates to devil’s footprint. Thanks to its name, countryside children cringe at the sight of the leaves.

When one combs the internet for jungle guides or trips, it becomes clear that not many operators dish out itineraries that involve deep jungle or multiple day treks. As much as there is good demand for authentic rain forest experiences, lack of good jungle guides who are well versed with the unwritten laws of the jungle is a stumbling block. Hence, most tour offerings are confined to touristy and developed national parks.

A trip into unpolished rain forest requires more than a guide who has a good grasp on flora and fauna. He must also have a healthy respect for unseen forces and win them over by being courageous, honest and courteous. A guide who is bad mannered, brags, cut trees un-necessarily or shows disrespect to the jungle would most certainly put everyone in hot soup.

The jungle is a hotbed of inhabitants - visible and invisible. As visitors, we can only heed time tested rules and advices - call it taboos if you prefer - passed down from people who experienced mishaps and lucky enough to live to tell their stories. The outdoors may the expression many Westerners use to describe woods or forested areas but for those in the know, visitors are actually stepping “indoors” into a domain suspended in time and dimension.

Believe it or not, the followings may be thought provoking but they are good advices to heed ….

Never a rose without the prick

The rainforest is shaded by tall trees and sunlight rarely touches its forest floor. Under these circumstances, plants evolve to compensate for the lack of sunlight and devise other ways to attract insects for pollination. Flowering is not the norm. However, if a beautiful flower presents itself in the middle of nowhere - back off. Do not touch it or worst take a sniff at it. This is the most dangerous sign that something un-natural is in the vicinity.

On the rocks

What do you do if you stumble on a large rock in the middle of the jungle? We know this defies logic but we can attest it does happen. In Mount Chante, during a student nature study trek, we did crossed path with a huge boulder out of the blue. It’s hard to imagine how such large and heavy entity can end up in the jungle (see picture). Again, this is not normal. Don’t go around carving “I was here” on the rock face or horse around.

Silently ask for permission in English “Tok, excuse me for trespassing” if you prefer or Malay “Minta lalu tok”, and proceed along your journey. Not long ago, during a recon operation, an army officer took a leak near a large rock and the next moment his lips were jammed shut. Local shaman has to be called in to cure the condition.

(We usually address jungle spirits as “tok”, the short name for “datok” which literally means the “elder one” or “respected one”, as an act of submission)

Fool’s paradise

Serene, lush foliage and surreal Eden-like setting. While everyone who walks into the jungle hopes for moment like this, sometimes finding serendipity is not always a good thing. Especially in a place that is windless and chirp from birds is strangely missing. If a place looks too beautiful to believe, turn back.

Places like these are haunts for Orang Bunians, forest fairies, and it is dangerous to rest or play in the same spot. Tales of trekkers been spirited away or go missing pepper Malay folklore and they are largely attributed to Orang Bunian. Touted as keepers of the rain forest, they may appear in the form of humans - handsome or pretty, clean looking and surprisingly fragrant - to make trekkers run around the bushes. Only those with pure hearts would outlast their tomfoolery.

An experienced jungle guide will always include the “rotan penyesat” as part of the packing list. A puzzle formed by two interlocking rattan loops, it is usually placed along the trail when the guide feels the trekking party is being haunted by Orang Bunian and in danger of getting lost. The puzzle requires high intelligence to solve and Orang Bunian is said to be very fond of playing with it, leaving trekkers to make their journey without disturbance.

Keeping big mouth shut

If you see, hear or smell something but your trekking partners did not, stop asking about it over and over again. When this happens, an experienced jungle guide would never reply to your questions until everyone is out of the woods. When something weird is making the rounds, it is best to deny its existence and stay calm. Fear is infectious and if your trekking companions are being badgered by odd questions, it may spook everyone and the collective semangat or inner strength of the trekking party will dip and exposes everyone to supernatural danger.

Name calling

It’s never a good idea to holler or go yodeling your friend’s name to get his attention; something “else” may answer back instead. Name calling should be avoided, but if it’s absolutely necessary, use code names, short names or nicknames. Local junglists believe calling names in deep forest invite attention from mischievous spirits. Likewise, if you hear your name being call out from nowhere, it’s best to ignore it.

Bed on the wrong side

Although land clearing along the track is the easiest option to set camp, it is definitely a bad call. Malaysian army personnel are always told incessantly by trainers: Never sleep on the beaten path.

Touch wood - All Malaysian jungle natives have a good collection of talismans to protect themselves spiritually at home and during overnights in the outdoors. Among many, the Raja Kayu (reddish sticks on left) is the most powerful. The wood is surprisingly heavy and oil oozes out from its surface when burnt. It is believed that a person or animal will become mad if hit by Raja Kayu. It makes the best repellent for evil spirits. Most Orang Asli village heads, shamans and medicine men keep at least one Raja Kayu at home to help ward of evil spirits and charms inflicted on them by enemies.

A jungle track is an evolution by itself. Almost all paths are carved by wildlife centuries ago and gradually used by humans for whatever reasons. At the same time, spirits – good or bad – also use the trails to traverse around the jungle. Simply put, it is a highway of sorts. If one sleeps along the traffic, being “run over” by supernatural forces is a certainty. There are confirmed reports where army groups base-up along the trail and found themselves waking up the next morning 3 maps away. Always set camp at least 20 feet off any trail.

Some species of tree barks are burned at night around the camp and the smoke is believed to shoo off wandering bad spirits. We think it is a great repellent for dangerous wildlife too. One whiff of the stench and you’d know why.

Other bad spots for overnights are river banks and near waterfalls. These are said to be favourite haunts of evil spirits. Anyway, if they don’t get you, tigers looking for a good bath probably will.

Basic instinct

Like animals, humans are instinctive. If we let our feelings flow, we’d know something bad is about to happen. Don’t suppress it.

A good jungle guide will call off an excursion if he feels “tak sedap hati” (literally: uneasiness of the heart) half way. The dude humps around the jungle more times than most people in the world. Pardon the pun, but he is almost an animal himself. If he feels “tak sedap hati”, don’t argue with him. People who walk in and out of the jungle develop primitive intuition for danger. Urbanites do not have this ability because all gut feelings are tuned to money making

Don’t do it the hard way

Keras is the Malay word that means hard or spiritually dangerous. During sunset and twilight hours, it is not advisable to go hobnobbing in the jungle because the period is known as keras. It’s a time when demons and spirits come out to play and cause havoc. If a part of forest is touted as keras by locals, then it is best to stay away because it is home to demons and bad spirits. Some old peculiar trees may also get the title keras if bad accidents or supernatural mishaps occurred within their surroundings. Simply put, it is not good to hump around the forest without some insider account from the locals.

Eawww …. what’s that smell?

Of all senses, the nose is your best early warning system against the presence of wildlife – and unearthly entities. Animals like to mark their territory with urine and droppings. Same goes for jungle spirits. Jembalang (vampire) and other aggressive spirits mark their joints with horrendous stench while female form of spirits like langsuir or pelesit (banshee) prefer scent that reminds one of Chanel No.5 or something more expensive. Yep, spirits can have good taste too. But seriously, these two are the most dangerous ones to watch out for and they could appear anytime of the day, not necessary at night.

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Editor: Datuk Khoo tells a tale that happened way back in the 60s when his team was assigned to escort a British officer into the jungle. At 4pm they encountered laughter that seemed to echo around the jungle. It continued at night. Sleeping inside an Orang Asli hut, everyone heard swoosh noises, as though something airborne was hollering around the hut. Luckily, a Malay private was experienced enough for matters like this and recited holy verses from the Quran as protection.

“Take it from me” said Datuk Khoo after narrating the story, “This is no joke. Modernity aside, spooks do happen in the jungle. Civilian, army personnel or holidaymaker alike, the jungle can be a friend if one knows how to manage it”.