Take The Path Less Ordinary

Sandakan and Sepilok - You can’t have one without the other

Everyone knows Sandakan reels thousands of tourists annually to its world famous Orang Utan sanctuary and it’s no surprise that people end up referring the quaint town as “the place near Sepilok”. But of course, Sandakan has so much more than orange-fur apes. This article attempts to give beginners an overview of Sandakan as a strategic holiday base and gateway to surrounding holiday hubs.

History

Not many know Sandakan started out with the quirky name Buli Sim Sim and later Elopura.

It was not until 1870s that William Clarke Cowie, a Scottish adventurer, who got permission from the Sultan of Sulu to set up a base in Pulau Timbang, renamed the region Sandakan , a name derived from the Suluk word “sanda” meaning to pawn. The man became good buddies with the Sultan after he successfully delivered guns and ammunition to help ward off attacks by Spaniards wishing to expand their turf from Phillippine islands.

Before World War 2, the British North Borneo Company governed Sabah . It was during colonial British rule that Sandakan had its moment in limelight when it took over Kudat as state capital. During this period, the seaside town bloomed but sadly towards the end of WW2, the Japanese bombed it to smithereens before they left. Without a building in sight, Allied forces that returned bestowed Kota Kinabalu (then known as Jesselton) as the new capital, leaving Sandakan to pick up the pieces and rebuild itself.

Like a butterfly, Sandakan today has emerged with new wings. In the process of rejuvenation, it has stumbled on a new niche – ecotourism.

How to get there

Buses take 6-7 hours to reach Sandakan from capital Kota Kinabalu - and the ride isn’t tickety-boo. So puh-leeasse, do yourself a favour - take the plane. There are direct flights connecting KL, Kota Kinabalu to Sandakan .

OK, I’m there. What’s the drill for holidaymakers ?

If you are new to this part of Malaysia and think guidebooks are a waste of money, here are some good pointers on how you can ace Sandakan like a pro.

For Malaysians, Sandakan is a haven for seafood. That’s it.

Surprised? Well, honestly, you can’t blame us because rainforest and islands are everywhere and Sandakan hardly stands out by locals’ standards. However, for a foreign visitor, the region offers a close knitted mishmash of interesting to-dos, must sees and of course good eats (you bet, seafood).

Another notable feature of Sandakan is the highly developed tourism industry. In fact, for a place tucked in the outer realm of Malaysia , we think Sandakan has the MOST sophisticated network of guides, budget chalets, up-market resorts and tour operators. Believe us, it can easily put KL to shame. Besides seafood, timber and oil palm industry, tourism is top money spinner here. This is good news to beginners. On the flip side, it’s no so good news for off-the-beaten-track connoisseurs. But hey, one person’s treasure is another person’s thrash.

Before we go further, take a look at the below map to get your bearings right ….

As you can see, Sandakan is the spring board to a good selection of places, depending on your holiday flavour and budget. Getting around the town is pretty easy, especially to nearby Sepilok, if you set aside some budget for taxis. Elsewhere, local tour expertise is needed. With the exception of June-Aug peak period, one can easily book a tour to any of these places from Sandakan.

Places to go around Sandakan

1. Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation Center - This is the major muse here. Our advice is, you do not need a tour package. Because 4,000 hectare Sepilok Forest Reserve is just 23km from Sandakan, all you need is a taxi to get you there. Don’t expect to walk into jungle clad wilderness. It’s more like going to an open air zoo and there’s an “orang utan show” a.k.a feeding time scheduled at 10am and 3pm daily. Started in 1964 by Barbara Harrison of WWF, today, Sabah Wildlife Department has taken over and re-developed it to include public education.

2. Turtle island aka Selingan - The turtle reserve is formed by Pulau Gulisan, Pulau Bakkungan Kechil and Pulau Selingan which covers 1,740 hectares and takes 1hr’s boat ride to reach from mainland. It’s a great place to visit but you need to book tours in advance because the turtle - mostly Green and Hawksbill turtles - egg laying island Selingan is run by private enterprise Crystal Quest Sdn Bhd (Tel 089-212711, Fax 089-212712 email cquest@tm.net.my) which leased the island from Malaysian government. As only 60 visitors can stay overnight at any day, accommodations and visiting rights are hot commodity and sold wholesale to tour agents in Sandakan. So, forget about planning a DIY trip to Selingan. It’s not possible. BTW, avoid going to the island during Nov-Feb as the monsoon wind is dangerous for boating (read mishap news article)

3. Labuk Bay - Tuck in the mangrove forests of Samawang is Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary, about 26km from Sandakan or roughly 1hrs drive through gravel road. The last 6km stretch gives one a bumpy ride via soil road. Setting aside profit-driven acumen, Malaysian palm oil planter Michael Lee reserved an area of 300-metre wide by 6km long strip of mangrove forest within the land that he owns to conserve the habitat of proboscis monkeys. A big pat on the back for Micheal ! Sure hope there are more planters like him.

4. Sukau Bilit Riverbank Forest - Also touted as “Lower Kinabatangan”, sadly, the region is currently being threatened by illegal logging and indiscriminate land-clearing for oil palm planting. With shrinking habitat, wildlife is squeezed to the narrow forest strip that flanks the river. For tour operators, it’s a boon because tourists can view animals like Borneo pygmy elephants, Orang utans, Proboscis monkeys, crocodiles and Hornbill birds up close on boat rides - but not for long. As competition for food and private space become intense, less animals will survive and this is the core issue that’s being bugging local villagers who make living from eco-tourism.

Animals in the rainforest are mostly nocturnal. If they show themselves during day time, it’s a sign of desperation. If one look carefully enough, one can see vast tract of oil palm plantation behind the thin strip of riverbank forest (take a look at Kinabatangan satellite image from Google Map and also read WWF Msia’s report).

At time of writing, local government has shown no interest in villagers’ grievance. For accommodation, there are still a handful of riverside lodges that are a grappling with deforestation and popular ones are Sukau Tomanggong Riverview Lodge, Proboscis Lodge, Barefoot Sukau Lodge, Sukau Rainforest Lodge, The Last Frontier Resort, Miso Walai Homestay and Uncle Tan’s. Let’s hope those who manage Sabah’s forestry come to their senses soon.

5. Gomantong Cave - Spread over 3,297 hectares of area, the cave is located in the Gomantong Forest Reserve. It is also home for swiftlet bird Collocalia Fuciphagus, Collocalia Maximus, Collocalia vanikorensis and Collocalia Esulenta. Nests made from C.Fuciphagus and C.Maximus’s saliva are edible delicacy and highly priced - US$500 per kg ! - for medicinal properties. Since 13th century, locals have been risking lives scaling high walls to harvest the nests. Warning: It’s not the kind of place for people who hate cockroach, bats and … bat’s droppings … tons of it. The smell of ammonia can be overwhelming for first time cavers. The cave is about 95km or 2hrs ride from Sandakan and a small fee will be charged by Sabah Forestry Dept for entrance. This is something you can DIY.

6. Langkayan Island - Divers, you’d love this place - but you gotta have deep pocket. Located further up north from Selingan aka Turtle island, Langkayan is the springboard for Sugud Islands Marine Conservation Area (SIMCA). However, it is not possible to DIY because the island is targeted for upmarket tourists and monopolized by one resort - Langkayan Island Dive Resort. No matter which tour agent you try to book, all will be funneled to Pulau Sipadan Resort & Tours Sdn Bhd. Yes, the same people who monopolize other islands like Sipadan, Mabul and Kapalai along east coast Sabah. Boat ride starts from Sandakan’s Yacht Club and it takes 1.5 hrs to reach Langkayan. As there are only a handful of beachfront stilt chalets, rooms are hot commodity.

7. Agop Batu Tulug - Lastly, if you enjoy gawking at burial artefacts and all things dead, hop over to the natural museum which is about 1.5hrs ride from Sandakan. The site is famed for its cave network that houses a wide array of hardwood coffins carved with ornate depictions of local wildlife, myths and legends of Orang Sungai natives. First discovered in 1894 by an expedition led by P. Brietag, a tobacco planter, today, the site is an important ground for archaeological studies in regards to prehistoric burial ritual. A small entrance fee will be charged and photography is not allowed. Opens 9am-5pm.

Road map that links major towns in Sabah

___________________________________________________________________________

Helping you wing Malaysia like a pro

We know many hate wordy posts. This weblog is designed to give beginners an easily digestible overview of our country Malaysia. Hence, we have loaded up on diagrams and photos to help you absorb as much information in a jiffy. Click around. You’ll find the sidebar is a treasure trove of insider accounts.