Take The Path Less Ordinary

First and foremost, it is a fishing village island. The eastern part of the island is bustling with seafaring and seafood activities while its western coast is calm and quiet, just the kind of place to laze around and enjoy the sandy white beaches. Pangkor is perfect if you want an island that’s far away from the monsoon doldrums. Located in peninsular west coast, it is shielded by Sumatran island mass and enjoys sunny days throughout the year.

Is Pangkor for you?

Tourism isn’t the money spinner here. If you’re looking for clubbing, nightlife and beach hedonism, the island will disappoint you. Locals sleep early as everyone wakes up early to roll out for fishing. English isn’t widely spoken but local school children are best bets if you need to ask for directions (Malaysian education requires every child to master English).

That said, Pangkor is a very good place for intrepid travellers to test their wings. It is not too primitive and yet not too developed. You can’t get lost in the island no matter how hard you try. Most importantly, it has the charm of a typical Malaysian fishing island.

Overview

Pangkor is surrounded by Mentagor, Pangkor Laut and Giam island. One can hike to Giam island, which is 3.8 nautical miles away, on a sand bridge during low tide. The mainland is roughly 2,300 hectares in size and has a population of 9,000.

History first took notice of Pangkor when the Dutch built an outpost in Kampong Teluk Gedong in 1670 for its trading ships to stopover. Back then, the Straits of Malacca was a crowded corridor where ships from far east and the western world meet, courtesy of monsoon winds. The Pangkor Treaty, signed between colonial English and the Sultan of Perak in the island also shot Pangkor into limelight and it marked colonial foray into local politics. Today, the island is a major site for seafood industry and its dried products are marketed all over Malaysia and Singapore.

How to get there

Ipoh is the transit hub to get to Lumut, the jetty to Pangkor. In Ipoh, one can use the bus services in Medan Kidd (Perak Roadways) to Lumut. During daytime, bus departs on hourly basis. The ride takes about 1.5 hrs and visually feasts one with sprawling paddy fields and quaint countryside villages. To view how Lumut/Pangkor is connected by road to other parts of the peninsular, click on this Malaysia peninsula map post.

Ferry service

The jetty in sleepy hollow Lumut is where visitors can arrange for ferry to Pangkor. Lumut-Pangkor ferry service departs every 30-45 mins and it costs RM10 for return transfer. The first trip leaves at 7am and the last one departs at 8:15-8:30pm. You’ll have no problem hopping on one during day time.

The ferry takes about 20-30 mins to reach Pangkor. If you miss the last ferry, don’t worry. The shoreline town is peppered with reasonably priced hotels, drinking joints, restaurants and recreational waterfront park. Community living in the navy base nearby makes the town lively at night. Your overnight stay can still be just as enjoyable.

Jetty complex in Lumut

Getting around the island

There are taxis to help visitors get around the island and it usually cost RM10 one way for destinations that are within 2-5km. At most, the “round the island tour” ride would only cost RM40.

But for those who prefer some workout, bicycles are available for rental at RM8 per day and motor bikes can be rented at a rate of RM25-40 per day, depending of weekday, weekend or public holiday. Look out for rental offerings as soon as you step off the main island jetty. On normal days, flyers and brochures are distributed around by rental businesses and if you can strike a good deal, rent a bike and go look for hotels yourself. The good thing is, you can paddle around viewing some chalets, hotels or resorts before deciding which one suits your budget and taste. When your holiday ends, just ride the bike back to the jetty and drop off the keys. Operators offering bicycle and motorbike rentals can also be found dotting popular beaches like Pasir Bogak, Nipah Bay and Segadas Bay. Insist on crash safety helmets that are usually provided free with bike rental. Police officers on patrol frequently haul up those who fail to put on the brain buckets. One can ride Pangkor’s tip to toe in less than 2-3 hrs.

Where to pad

Cast your gaze westward. Coastal regions of Pasir Bogak, Nipah Bay, Ketapang and Puteri Dewi (see map above) are dotted with smallholder chalets. As usual, these low key accommodations do not have website and you can only sign up for beds when you get there. Budget accommodation’ price ranges from RM30-RM80. For mid-range places, say chalets that fit 3 persons, they are priced somewhere RM220 per night. We don’t endorse any hotel but for rooms that suit different budgets, you can look up Hotel Seaview, Nipah Bay Villa, Pangkor Island Beach Resort or Pangkor Laut for benchmarking. There are small businesses around the beaches for bike/canoe rentals, internet, food, grocery and tours.

Stratch beneath the surface

Look no further. Head for Pulau Jarak, about 1-2 hrs ride (depending on boat speed) from Pangkor. The islet is the best kept secret for untouched marine life. Barely 8 hectares in size, the islet is made up of rock outcrop and waters surrounding it is teeming with turtles, colourful corals and every imaginable sealife. There’s no accomodation in the islet and it is only suitable for day trips. Boat rides to Jarak can be arranged by smallholder boat operators at Pasir Bogak and Nipah Bay.

Scene shots

If you’re not convinced, we hope these photos will pull your heartstrings …..

The most beautiful places are always the least well-known. Pangkor has enough extraordinary sun-kissed beaches to stop you on your track.

Canoes can be rented from operators dotting Nipah Bay and Pasir Bogak. Try paddling to nearby Giam and Mentagor island to laze around the hidden beaches.

Watercolour painted evening sky - Let the artwork of nature come to you. The western part of Pangkor is the best region to stay and enjoy the daily display of dazzling sunset.

Local Taoist temple - Pangkor is void of tourism gimmickry because it can afford to. Dressed in natural tropical wilderness and intriguing sites, the island reels in visitors with its unpretentious charm.

How can one have a bad holiday with cheeky local kids like these.

All hands on deck - Fishery and seafood industry is the economic lifeline of islanders. Locals will happily let you watch them work and help you bring home some fascinating photos. Fishes are sorted and separated according to sizes. This is no easy task considering each boat brings in 1-2 ton of catch for every outing.

Boat building is fine art here. Skillful builders construct large wooden fishing boat that can withstand fiercest storms from memory and designs are passed down by word of mouth.

“Having balls” takes on a new meaning - Fish paste is flavoured, shaped into miniballs and cooked to produce “yee tan” or fish balls, a highly popular local must-eat. Nibbling your way around Pangkor is an adventure itself.

Other good reads

1. Finding your way to Lumut from Ipoh by bus
2. Where is Ipoh?
3. Malaysian travel tips, cost and advice